Having scalloped lace at the upper edge of a bra cup or on the bottom edge of a band/bridge/frame is a beautiful detail, but it poses a problem. How the heck to finish it? The usual way to finish either is to first sew plush/picot elastic on the right side of the garment with a zig zag stitch, and then flip it to the inside of the garment and sew it down once more, again with a zigzag stitch. The raw seam allowances are concealed the the tiny picots extend from the edge. Can’t do this when scalloped lace is involved. So below, I share with you three methods for finishing a scallop lace edge.
Lace from Bra Making Supplies by Arte Crafts.
The first method is to sew 1/8″ inside the lowest point of the scallop using a zig zag stitch. If your lace has a large scallop with big “peaks and valleys”, you could outline the shape rather than sew a straight line. Zig zig length and width is a personal preference.
When cutting the lining, cut a straight line from one point to another so the lining extends just beyond the highest scallop. Once I sew the zig zag stitch,
I then trim close to the stitching. This prevents the lining from getting sucked into the bobbin. I used this same method on the bottom edge of Sierra.
I use this finish for more delicate lingerie. Because there is no elastic, there is less support, almost none. The only problem I’ve run into is the fabric tunneling inside the stitches. Even when I’ve used a water soluble stabilizer, I’ve always encountered a little tunneling. Perfection is overrated. What has helped is slightly pulling the fabric from the front and the back while sewing. Keyword being slightly.
The second method is to top apply thin 1/8″ elastic on the inside. To do this, cut the lining so that it is 1/8” inside the lowest point of the scallop and then center the elastic over the lining edge. Next, top stitch using a zigzag stitch the same width or slightly less than the width of the elastic.
I use this finish when I need more stability. It won’t give a lot of support, but it will provide more than the first method. Also, this is the most often way I’ve seen scalloped edges in RTW bras finished. It is usually done with a nicer and thinner elastic, but tunnel elastic has been the only one I’ve been able to find that is 1/8″. Would love suggestions!
The third method is to clean finish 1/8” elastic between the lining and the lace. To do this, I cut the lining so that it is 1/8” past the highest point of the scallop. Then, I sew the elastic to the wrong side of the lining with a zigzag stitch. After, I flip it to the inside and topstitch through all layers with a zig zag. Her is an image of it finished.
Okay, now it’s your turn. How do you finish a scalloped edge on lace? Do you know when I can find thinner 1/8″ elastic (no, I don’t like clear elastic). Do you have any recommendations on how I could make my finish better?