Just a quick bra making tip today. It’s a simple technique, but one that makes sewing a lot easier and the finished bra more professional and clean looking.
When you have elastics that intersects, such as at a strap point, cut the first elastic short so that when the second is sewn and flipped back onto the first, there is very little bulk. Elastic is thick as it is, so reducing thickness at seams/points will prevent skipped stitches or your machine struggling to pass over “the hump.” This is especially true at strap points, when you could easily have 8 layers of fabric and elastic. When that happens, it’s almost impossible to attach the straps/rings. Your machine will literally go no where.
So, how do you do this exactly? Let me walk you through it. I’ll use the strap point as an example and 3/8” elastic. I sew the first pass of elastic to one side, stopping 3/8” and a hair less from the edge of the fabric and cut the elastic to the last stitch (a hair less will account for the turn of cloth in the next step). Then, I turn the elastic to the wrong side and sew the second pass. After, I sew the second elastic to the other side, making sure that the elastic is butted up against where the first was cut off (see image). Last, I turn the elastic to the wrong side and sew the second pass.
Do you have any bra making tips that make your bras more professional?