If you missed Monday’s post, I’m switching up my game plan for sewing lingerie and if you don’t want to click back, I’ll bring you up to speed now. For about a year up until I went to Paris, I had this thing against buying ready-to-wear lingerie. My thinking was similar to Me-Made-May’s mission– to motivate me to sew more, to push me to wear the intimates I made, to use leftover fabric and to celebrate the hard work I put into crafting unique, one of a kind pieces. My intentions were good, but it wasn’t conducive to me learning more about bra making. When I was shopping in Paris, I inspected trims, felt fabric and looked at the different hardware. From that buying trip, I learned A LOT of new techniques. So, I’m going to start buying from the market, replicating techniques I like and developing my own to make something that’s me. This is the second of two bras I posted this week.
F a b r i c + T r i m s
Front and back (one piece): light blue lycra from Fleishman Fabrics underlined with white lace from Tailor Made Shop. I used temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together prior to cutting. I treated the layers as one going forward.
3/8” white plush/picot elastic for underarm, center front and center back edges from Arte Crafts
3/4” white firm band elastic for the bottom band from Bra Makers Supply
1/8” white decorative strap elastic for bra wings from Bra Makers Supply
1/2″ white strap elastic from Tailor Made Shop
1/2” silver rings and sliders from Bra Makers Supply
P a t t e r n + C o n s t r u c t i o n
For the most part, construction was the same as the original/inspiration bra. I changed the bottom band to be a 3/4″ firm band elastic instead of a 1/2″ fold over elastic (FOE). I made the change not for support, but because one, it required me to use my new cover stitch machine (I used this tutorial) and two, I HATE sewing FOE. Haters gone hate, and I hate sewing fold over elastic!
Because the pattern is one piece, rubbing it off was super easy. This pattern is based off of this bra from Urban Outfitters, and I laid one half of the bra on oak tag paper, outlined the shape and then added seam allowances. The only change I made was to scoop out the underarm and reduce the height of the bodice underneath the apex and strap point.
C o m m e n t s
Because of the strappy details, I can’t wear this bra underneath close fitting tees and such, unless I want the bra to be visible, and that depends on where I’m going. To work – not okay, but on the weekend – sure.
This bra is super comfy to wear, but it’s not super flattering. Actually, I hate how it looks. It’s the same problem I had with Nellie Warner. It makes me look bigger than what I am, and I am by no means big (28″ ribcage, 23.5″ waist). Maybe it’s the thick band at the bottom? Maybe it’s the 1/2″ strap elastic (1/4″ would be better)? Maybe is the strap point width apart? Or maybe it’s all of those combined? In my honest opinion, this is sporty feminine done WRONG. Oh well. You live, you learn and you make more bras! Would love to hear your thoughts on how I can make this bra look better.