The feedback I received from the intimates survey has helped me so much. Again, thank you! I would kiss you if we were in person. Okay, maybe not! When I posted the results, I asked larger chested women to tell me why they don’t wear a soft bra and what would push them to try one. For the most part, the comments expressed the same thing – that soft bras don’t provide enough support, which can be painful for some, and creates a mono boob. Nobody likes a mono boob just like nobody likes a unibrow. Sorry Frida. Although Mallori Lane is super comfortable, it functions like a compression sports bra, flattening out the chest and creating a dun, dun, dun… mono boob. I’ve been pinning a lot of bras with boxy, sharp silhouettes – here and here are two examples – and I wanted to transform Mallori Lane into something similar as well as transform it into a style that would flatten less and accommodate projection/volume. After editing the photos – personally, I don’t get a clear sense of fit until I see it on body in photos – I don’t think I accomplished the silhouette I envisioned, but just like Nina and Nellie Warner, it’s a work in progress. So, there will be more iterations as I develop this pattern!
CENTER FRONT, SIDE FRONT, TOP BACK BAND: metallic lycra lined with stretch mesh, both from Fleishman Fabrics. I cut lycra and lining separately and didn’t use temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together, which is what I usually do. I did this because I clean finished the princess and side seams.
BOTTOM FRONT AND BACK BAND: black stretch lace with metallic threads from Tailor Made Shop.
1/4” stretch piping at underarm, which functions the same way as picot/plush elastic, purchased from Bra Makers Supply
½” rings and sliders from Bra Makers Supply
½” strap elastic from Tailor Made Shop
To transform the Mallori Lane pattern to this pattern, I tried on Mallori Lane, stood in front of the mirror, and used this skinny masking tape to experiment with the design lines. When I worked in tech design, I used this tape a lot to “draw” on the mannequin/dress form. What you see is what I came up with, and there really was no rhyme or reason how I ended up here. Just messed around till I liked what I saw. Transferring this to the pattern took several attempts – first the neckline was too curved, then the strap points were too far apart, then the horizontal/center front line was too high, yada, yada, yada. I am not in love with it – I want it to be boxier – and I think that’s a matter of bringing the strap point closer together in order to get that sharp curve at the horizontal, center front line.
Since the construction of this bra is very similar to Mallori lane, sewing was easy. What was most difficult was figuring out how to finish the front neckline. I wanted to have a sharp corner so that the silhouette would be boxy. For my first attempt, I finished the neckline with elastic the “regular” way – I placed elastic plush side up on right side of fabric, sewed along the picot edge, then flipped elastic to wrong side and sewed the opposite edge. I applied the elastic to the left neckline, then to the right neckline, then clipped into the corner (the same way you do when sewing a welt pocket), and then sewed the center front. Because you could see where the zig zag start and stopped at the points, it looked slightly homemade. For my second attempt, I sandwiched stretch piping between the self fabric and the lining fabric and attached it the same way as above (right neckline, left neckline, clip, then center front). It was definitely a cleaner finish, but very bulky. For my third attempt, I placed right side of fabric against right side of lining with nothing sandwiched in between and sewed the entire neckline in one swoop with a small zig zag (2.0 mm / 1.5 mm). After, I went back and I sewed with a straight stitch ½” before and after the points. I used a short stitch length – 1.5 mm – just like you would at any point to be clipped on a “normal”garment. Then I clipped, and flipped the lining to the inside. Winner, winner chicken dinner!
The rest of the bra came together in a snap. I actually timed myself and it took me from 1 1/2 hours to sew the entire thing. I’m a slow sewer, so that’s good for me!
I also clean finished the princess seam and the side seam, so it’s super pretty on the inside. Woot woot!
I’ve been using labels for the lingerie I make for other people. If you’re looking for labels at a great price, check out Clothing Labels4U. The ordering process is a little tedious, but for the cost, it’s worth it.
So about the undies. Aren’t they purty? I consider this a wearable muslin, and I’m not going to say a lot about them until I make a couple more.
FRONT AND BACK: metallic lycra lined with stretch mesh, both from Fleishman Fabrics. I cut lycra and lining separately and I didn’t use temporary spray adhesive to spray baste the fabrics together like I usually do. I did this because I clean finished the crotch seam.
1/4” stretch piping at front and back cutouts, which functions the same way as picot/plush elastic, purchased from Bra Makers Supply
3/8” rings and sliders from Bra Makers Supply
3/8” strap elastic from Bra Makers Supply
3/8” firm elastic for waist and leg opening from Bra Makers Supply
These undies were inspired by Kayleigh Peddie’s undies. It was super easy to develop the pattern. I made a sample pair using my undie block and the metallic lycra, then used the skinny tape mentioned above to get the cut right. After, I transferred it to the pattern. Like I wrote above, this pair is a wearable muslin and I definitely want to make many changes to it.
Construction was a cinch too – standard for any undie. I finished cutouts with ¼” stretch piping, then sewed elastic to front and back waist. After, I sewed from and back together at crotch seam, attached elastic to leg opening, then attached strapping.