Faux Hook + Eye Front Closure Sewing Tutorial

With every collection, I love to introduce a new sewing technique. I’m a firm believer that there’s always something new to learn, and experimenting with new details keeps my creativity flowing. This month, I’m obsessed with the faux hook and eye front closure we added to the Rey Underwire Bra and Godiva Bodysuit from my book, Sew Lingerie. It’s purely decorative — but the touch of gold hardware peeking through adds such a beautiful, luxe finish. Let me know you how to make it!

The key to successfully sewing is having everything cut out correctly. So before you start sewing, take a peek at all the pieces cut out above – I am using the bra cups from the Rey Underwire Bra, the frame pieces from the Godiva bodysuit, and the back band is self drafted and I go over this in the sew along for the Godiva bodysuit on YouTube (the first video). The only pattern alteration I made was to split the Center Front Frame into two pieces and cut it *not on the fold*.

The first step is to sew the hook and eye tape along the center front. We sewed the hooks backwards (so the hooks facing up) so that the gold would be exposed. It is a design detail and technically not correct. It’s super important to place the first hook and eye 1/4” below the top edge to allow the fold over elastic to be sewn in the next step. You may have to remove a hook and eye from the bottom edge to finish the fold over elastic in the next step, but we will worry about that when we get to that step.

Next, finish the top edge with fold over elastic.

After, spray baste center front frame to the sheer cup lining. I use Odif 505 spray adhesive, which is my go-to in lingerie sewing.

With right sides facing, sew Center Front Frame to Middle Front Frame. Then attach underwire channeling to the seam allowances, sewing it in a way so it would fold towards the center front. 

Attach Side Front Frame and Back Band. For this step, sew wrong sides together so seam allowances are on the outside. Then attach underwire channeling to the seam allowances, sewing it in a way so it would fold towards the center front.

Assemble bra cups using your preferred method or the method instructed in the book.

Attach bra cups to frame with wrong sides together (so underwire channeling can be exposed in next step) using your preferred method or the method instructed in the book.

Sew underwire channeling to wire seam allowances.

Finish top and bottom edges with fold over elastic and attach hooks and eyes. End with making and sewing the strap elastic. Again, you can use your preferred method or the method instructed in the book.

Finally, insert underwires. Then fold underwire channeling to inside and tack down. Last is to cut away the sheer mesh to create the cut out effect.