Fruitopia Collection Sewing Guide

Summer is here and Madalynne’s June collection is a delicious medley of lingerie, corsetry, swimwear and outerwear. It includes bras, panties, waspies, swimwear and dresses all made with fabrics and trims developed just for Madalynne – an embroidered tulle lace with pineapples, cherries and lemons. A printed lycra and cotton poplin that can be used for both swimwear and outerwear. As with previous collection, there are also new sewing techniques that we will be sharing tutorials for via IG reels or blog posts. I’m obsessed with the Madalynne X Simplicity S9974 variation that has a lace up front.

This blog post is meant to be a guide to sewing DIY kits from the collection. Many times, when you make your Madalynne DIY kit, the product listing has been removed because it sold out or it has been a long time. If the DIY kit is a variation of the original pattern, you may not remember what the variation was or how to do it. Don’t panic. This blog post will briefly outline how each kit is made and any variations.

IMHO, this is the most fun DIY kit from the collection! It’s just a few minor changes to the Rey underwire bra and the Millie panty.

Rey Underwire Bra: This is a variation of the underwire bra from Madalynne’s book, Sew Lingerie, that has exposed underwire bra channeling using fold over elastic and a scallop lace detailing at the bottom of the front frame (instead of a wide band elastic).

Top Bra Cup: One layer of non stretch galloon lace. Cut out and sewn as per instructions.
Lower Bra Cups: One layer of bra cup lining and one layer of non stretch galloon lace.
Frame: One layer of non stretch galloon lace and one layer of sheer cup lining. The galloon edge is on the bottom edge. Before sewing the frame to the back band, finish the bottom edge with picot elastic (sewn flat on the wrong side).
Back Band: Two layers of stretch mesh. Bottom edge is finished with fold over elastic before sewn to the frame. Since a wide band elastic won’t be sewn to the bottom of the bra, make adjustments to the width of the back band so that it will fit into the hook + eye.

Millie Panty: You could use several Madalynne patterns for the matching thong. The panty in the photos is the Millie, but the Tonika, Buffy or Odessa could be used.

Front Panty: One layer of the non stretch galloon lace lined with one layer of stretch mesh. We pieced it together using this tutorial so it would fit on the pattern. The scallop lace edge is along the top edge (waistline), so before sewing the front panty to the back panty, finish the top edge with picot elastic (sewn flat on the wrong side).
Back Panty: One layer of stretch mesh.

The Annabelle waspie paired with the Rey underwire bra and Millie panty brings it to the next level! This variation is the same variation as the Annabelle for the Bridgerton collection. Instead of clicking over to another blog post, I’ve copy and pasted the tutorial below. So please note that the fabrics are different, but the method is the same.

One: First, spray baste corset mesh to stretch mesh. Then, cut all pieces except for the center back. After, cut the center back out of off coutil.

Two: Cut two strips of non stretch gallon lace. The length should be the slightly longer than the waspie. The width depends on how wide you want the lace overlay to be. Sew the two strips together. Press seams open and then lay on top (right side) of all Annabelle pattern pieces except for the center back. The seam on the lace strip should align with the waistline. Pin in place. Then cut the lace strips for each pattern piece.

Three: With right sides together, sew all panels along the vertical seams except for center back (please note that I did not sew down the lace strips prior to this step, but if you prefer to, you can). Then, sew the boning channels as per the instructions. For this DIY kit, the boning channels were regular bra channeling.

Once boning channels are attached, lay ribbon on the right side of the corset. It should align with the waistline. Sew down with a straight stitch (bar tack) right next to each vertical seam. So the ribbon is ‘free floating’ in between the vertical seams. Tie in a bow at the center front.

Once the ribbon is attached, then sew the center back panel and attach the boning channels.

*Because the Annabelle is sheer, plastic boning is included in the DIY kits to prevent boning from showing through. 

Four: Proceed with sewing the Annabelle per the instructions. Please note that the binding for the top and bottom edges is ⅜” fold over elastic, which is usually used for lingerie. Since this Annabelle variation is being styled with a Rey underwire bra and Millie panty, lingerie elastic was used as binding.

It’s be a long time since there was a DIY kit for the Fenix and I think this lace and mesh is perfect for it!

Bra Cups: One layer of non stretch galloon lace
Front Panty, Back Panty, Back Band: One layer of dot mesh (main fabric), one layer of stretch mesh (lining fabric) and one layer of non stretch galloon lace on top.

This DIY kit is a mashup of two variations. Watch this tutorial for how to make the variation of the Fenix and watch this tutorial for the peekaboo cups.

This is going to be my #hotgirlsummer dress for 2024! I currently have 3 cut out for myself – I tend to get obsessed with a pattern and make multiples.

Pattern Alterations: I used View A bodice (pattern pieces #1-6) for this dress variation and combined the Shoulder Tab (pattern piece #8) and Middle Front (pattern piece #2). I go over this alteration more in depth in the S9974 sew along. I also cut the Peplum Front (pattern piece #15) as a rectangle. 

Sewing: 

1. Cut 2 strips of fabrics that are 2.5” wide and long enough to cover the length of Front (pattern piece #1). Ensure that these strips are lined with a strength layer such as coutil so that they will be thick enough for the eyelets. 
2. Fold the strips in half and lay them over the Front (pattern piece #1). Cut at top and bottom so that the ends of the strips are the same angle/shape at the bodice. 
3. Mark and add eyelets. 
4. Add eyelets.
5. Baste strips to Front (pattern piece #1).
6. Proceed with constructing the S9774 as per the instructions.

Just like the Fenix, it’s been a long time since there has been a DIY kit for the Galina! This is a slight variation of the original pattern using a non stretch embroidered lace instead of a stretch fabric for the bra cups and front panty. So I suggest sizing up for the cups and panty.

Bra Cups: One layer of non stretch galloon lace. Do not finish top edge of bra cups with fold over elastic.
Frame: One layer of non stretch galloon lace and one layer of sheer cup lining. The galloon edge is on the bottom edge. Before sewing the frame to the back band, finish the bottom edge of the frame with picot elastic (sewn flat on the wrong side).
Back Band: Two layers of stretch mesh. Bottom edge is finished with fold over elastic before sewn to the frame. Since a wide band elastic won’t be sewn to the bottom of the bra, make adjustments to the width of the back band so that it will fit into the hook + eye.

Front Panty: One layer of the non stretch galloon lace . We pieced it together using this tutorial so it would fit on the pattern. Do not finish edge of left and right front panties.
Back Panty: One layer of stretch mesh.

Beach babe alert! This is the Hallie Bikini from Madalynne’s book paired with the Madalynne X Simplicity S9802 robe (worn as a cover up). There is not DIY kit for the S9802 since it is just fabric.

Hallie bikini is one layer of lycra lined with one layer of stretch mesh. The only changes we made were using a ruched band using the self fabric – click here for tutorial, and finishing the edges with rubber elastic. I recommend adding ¼” to all edges where the rubber elastic is used since the pattern calls for fold over elastic.

Another great swimsuit from Madalynne’s book. This is the Henrietta one piece.

Henrietta one piece is one layer of lycra lined with one layer of stretch mesh. The only change that was made was the front surplice – the left and right front bodice are “kissing” at the center front instead of crossing over. Click here to watch the full sew along for the Henrietta here.

Whatever occasion you are going to this summer or fall, this Madalynne X Simplicity S9850 dress is perfect! The construction follows the instructions and you can watch the sew along here on Madalynne’s YouTube channel.

Bra Cups: One layer of non stretch all over lace and one layer of stretch mesh
Frame: One layer of non stretch all over lace and one layer of stretch mesh. It is not lined with sheer cup lining since the main fabric (non stretch all over lace) is already non stretch.
Back Band: Two layers of stretch mesh
Upper Skirt: One layer of non stretch all over lace and one layer of stretch mesh
Lower Skirt: One layer of non stretch all over lace