Surprisingly, the most common question I’ve received after releasing my new online DIY lingerie class with Creativebug is not about direction of greatest stretch, or where to buy Odif’s 505 spray adhesive, or the right width of picot elastic. Most questions have been about crotch linings. Crotch lining is like the word moist. For some, it’s NBD to say. For others, let’s just say it doesn’t roll off the tip of their tongue. Personally, I think it’s better than saying genital lining. Perspective people.
So I’m here today to clear the air on crotch linings as well as giving a quick tutorial on how to sew the crotch lining on the Noelle underwear, the basic but super feminine high-waisted undie that is taught in my CB class.
- Crotch lining, panty liner, and gusset – what is the difference? When it comes to your underoos, it’s the same thing. At least that’s my understanding. Technically, a gusset can also be a “triangular or rhomboidal piece of fabric inserted into a seam to a reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing.” In the case of active wear (i.e. yoga pants), it’s that little piece in the crotch area that is usually sewn in using a cover stitch. I’ve also seen it sewn into the underarm/armpit area of a top/blouse. It adds mobility to a garment (read: it allows you to raise your arms and do all those crazy yoga poses without experiencing a fashion faux pas).
- A crotch lining is usually made of a moisture-wicking, breathable fabric such as cotton to keep your hoo-hah area dry and ventilated, and inhibit the growth of bacteria or odors. I strongly advise not to use a poly or synthetic fabrics because it will make it “moist” down there.
- There are several ways to attach a crotch lining. Three types that are most common are:
- Crotch linings that are completely enclosed at the front and back tutorial here.
- Crotch linings that are half enclosed – tutorial here. I have read that having one end open allows water and soap to get inside and do it’s job during cleaning/washing.
- Crotch linings that are not enclosed at all. In RTW, this the most economical and usually found in lower priced undies. Let’s pretend a company makes 1 million pairs of undies a month and saves one cent per pair if the crotch lining is not enclosed at all. That one cent sounds like nothing, however, multiply that one cent by one million, and you have the difference of $10,000. That’s a lot. For the home sewist though, we’re not dealing with millions.
- If the crotch lining is half enclosed or not enclosed at all, you can finish the front and/or back edges with a serger, or you can left it raw. The jersey won’t roll back and the elastic sewn at either ends keeps it in place. For some people, the poly thread used in an overlock is irritating.
HOW TO SEW THE CROTCH LINING ON THE NOELLE
- With right side of front and back undie panels facing and wrong side of back underwear panel facing up, pin crotch lining to crotch seam. Right side of crotch lining should face wrong side of back undie panel.
- Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance and a straight stitch.
- Push/press crotch lining forward and use pins or a temporary spray adhesive like Odif’s 505 to keep in place. You can press the crotch seam with an iron (use a synthetic setting!) to reduce bulk.
- Proceed with attaching picot elastic at waist and leg opening.
Now that you’ve got the 411 on crotch linings, why not make a pair? Or two? Or three?!?!? Click here to sign up for my new DIY lingerie class with Creativebug and sew all the crotch linings your little heart desires.
Sierra Sew Along Starts Monday!
Recap: Let’s Talk Bras with Brooklyn Craft Company
Unboxing PFAFF® creative icon™ Sewing and Embroidery Machine
Your Bra Making and Lingerie Questions Answered
Hah! I’m with you on the word “moist” and “gusset!” Both made me shudder. But still as you said its a little more delicate than Genital lining! You made me laugh with that one, good tips though, I didn’t realise that leaving one end open was related to laundering, I tend to enclose at the back, at the seams and leave the top overlocked.
I overlock half the time and don’t the other half. It’s sometimes hard to get the tension right on such delicate fabric, and leaving raw doesn’t look bad.
I have had beach/swimwear only enclosed at one end and the gusset ended up full of sand!!
Yikes! I’m sure that wasn’t the intended purpose!
“Crotch lining” is exactly what you want to say. The added fabric is not, in fact, a gusset, though old fashioned undies (I’m imagining my grandmother’s “tap-pants”-style underpants) did have an added piece of fabric between the legs for ease of movement and added comfort. And “genital lining” doesn’t work since you are lining the crotch of the undies (the “entrejambe” in French), not the “girly bits” of the woman wearing them. http://wearinghistoryblog.com/2016/06/how-to-sew-1940s-panties-gusset/
I’m on the hunt for underwear that has a gusset that extends or is placed further forward. In my search today I’ve come across way too many threads on every major forum where women complain about this issue (since it causes a damp spot on unlined visible fabric). For some women its just certain brands but for me and a lot of others it’s all brands and it’s always about an inch. So I’m going to make my own! Do you have any advice for adjusting this in your pattern? Like do you foresee any issue? Is there a practical (engineering-related) reason that designers do this?
Snap!
Did you find any brands? The thought of sewing odd-coloured patches of fabric into the 50 pairs of misfitting undies I own is so dreary. Life is too short. I would be happy to spend money on another 50 pairs of anatomically correct undies, if only I could find them. Insane that they are all made wrong. Are there really *no women* employed by any underwear designers/manufacturer, anywhere in the world? (BTW, I am not anatomically unusual in any way, and actually quite fashionably on trend shape-wise. So it’s not about that. The gussets are all either very (Asian undies) or slightly too far back.)
I am trying everything for three year vaginal itch including going to a gynecologist. Last time, the gyno suggested I change to cotton panties. I did, then the whole area where your panties cover started itching so I assumed maybe I am allergic to cotton. I went back to my polyester panties and the itch has subsided except in the vaginal area. The panties have a cotton crotch. My question is: are there any panties that are not cotton and do not have a cotton lining. I quit using panti liners a few months ago and itch has subsided a tiny bit! Hoping this may be that I am allergic to cotton.
Hope you have found a solution by now, but just in case…
The problem may be your laundry detergent. Try changing to a non-bio non-scented laundry powder/fluid with no softener and do an extra rinse to be sure there isn’t too much residue. Also, apparently some dyes can cause problems, so you could try unbleached cotton and see if that is better.
If you want to stay away from cotton, you could try silk. Or perhaps bamboo, although this is often mixed with cotton, so check the label.
Try changing to no scent no dye laundry detergent and softener (use liquid not dryer sheets). If cotton still seems to be a problem and you sew your own panties try linen rather than cotton (and avoid man-made fabrics). Good luck!
Use 100% silk not man-made. That’s what I do. I hope this helps. SosewMichelle.com
could you please share what sort of jersey you use (e.g. weight etc.) for the liner?
Usually a cotton lycra blend, 60-80 GSM