Surprisingly, the most common question I’ve received after releasing my new online DIY lingerie class with Creativebug is not about direction of greatest stretch, or where to buy Odif’s 505 spray adhesive, or the right width of picot elastic. Most questions have been about crotch linings. Crotch lining is like the word moist. For some, it’s NBD to say. For others, let’s just say it doesn’t roll off the tip of their tongue. Personally, I think it’s better than saying genital lining. Perspective people.
So I’m here today to clear the air on crotch linings as well as giving a quick tutorial on how to sew the crotch lining on the Noelle underwear, the basic but super feminine high-waisted undie that is taught in my CB class.
- Crotch lining, panty liner, and gusset – what is the difference? When it comes to your underoos, it’s the same thing. At least that’s my understanding. Technically, a gusset can also be a “triangular or rhomboidal piece of fabric inserted into a seam to a reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing.” In the case of active wear (i.e. yoga pants), it’s that little piece in the crotch area that is usually sewn in using a cover stitch. I’ve also seen it sewn into the underarm/armpit area of a top/blouse. It adds mobility to a garment (read: it allows you to raise your arms and do all those crazy yoga poses without experiencing a fashion faux pas).
- A crotch lining is usually made of a moisture-wicking, breathable fabric such as cotton to keep your hoo-hah area dry and ventilated, and inhibit the growth of bacteria or odors. I strongly advise not to use a poly or synthetic fabrics because it will make it “moist” down there.
- There are several ways to attach a crotch lining. Three types that are most common are:
- Crotch linings that are completely enclosed at the front and back tutorial here.
- Crotch linings that are half enclosed – tutorial here. I have read that having one end open allows water and soap to get inside and do it’s job during cleaning/washing.
- Crotch linings that are not enclosed at all. In RTW, this the most economical and usually found in lower priced undies. Let’s pretend a company makes 1 million pairs of undies a month and saves one cent per pair if the crotch lining is not enclosed at all. That one cent sounds like nothing, however, multiply that one cent by one million, and you have the difference of $10,000. That’s a lot. For the home sewist though, we’re not dealing with millions.
- If the crotch lining is half enclosed or not enclosed at all, you can finish the front and/or back edges with a serger, or you can left it raw. The jersey won’t roll back and the elastic sewn at either ends keeps it in place. For some people, the poly thread used in an overlock is irritating.
HOW TO SEW THE CROTCH LINING ON THE NOELLE
- With right side of front and back undie panels facing and wrong side of back underwear panel facing up, pin crotch lining to crotch seam. Right side of crotch lining should face wrong side of back undie panel.
- Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance and a straight stitch.
- Push/press crotch lining forward and use pins or a temporary spray adhesive like Odif’s 505 to keep in place. You can press the crotch seam with an iron (use a synthetic setting!) to reduce bulk.
- Proceed with attaching picot elastic at waist and leg opening.
Now that you’ve got the 411 on crotch linings, why not make a pair? Or two? Or three?!?!? Click here to sign up for my new DIY lingerie class with Creativebug and sew all the crotch linings your little heart desires.